How to Install Shade Net: A Step-by-Step Guide for Greenhouses

Installation · August 2026

Correct shade net installation is the difference between a cover that lasts five seasons and one that tears in the first storm. A net that sags collects water and chafes against the frame; a net pulled too tight snaps at the fixing points. Follow the sequence below and you will get a clean, durable result.

What You Need Before You Start

Gather everything before you climb onto the structure. For a typical hoop house or flat crop canopy you will need:

• The HDPE shade net cut 5–10% oversize to allow for tensioning
• Galvanized wire or UV-stable rope for the ridge and edges
• Plastic shade-net clips, tie-wraps or hog rings (every 300–400 mm)
• Posts, hoops or an existing frame, plus turnbuckles or tensioners
• Gloves and a long straight edge for trimming

Step 1: Measure and Mark the Fixing Points

Measure the full span you need to cover, including the overhang on each side. Mark where the net will anchor — along the ridge line, the two eaves and the end gables. On a flat structure, run a perimeter wire first; this gives you a straight, strong line to fix against instead of stitching the net directly to weak timber.

Step 2: Anchor the Support Structure

Your support must be rigid before the net goes on. Set end posts and intermediate hoops at even spacing, and tension the perimeter cables with turnbuckles. A support that flexes in the wind will transfer that movement into the net and wear it out at the contact points.

Step 3: Unroll and Position the Net

Unroll the net along the structure with the knitted selvedge running parallel to the ridge. If you are covering a wide span with two rolls, overlap them by at least 150 mm so there is no gap at the seam. Keep the net loose and centred before you fix anything.

Step 4: Fix the Net Under Even Tension

This is the step most people get wrong. Work from the ridge outward, fixing at even intervals, and pull each section to a firm — but not drum-tight — tension. A correctly tensioned shade net has a small amount of give so it can absorb wind load. Use UV-stable clips rather than bare wire, which cuts the mesh over time.

Step 5: Trim and Reinforce the Edges

Trim any excess with a hot knife to prevent fraying, leaving a clean 50–100 mm edge. Fold the selvedge back and fix it a second time on high-wind sides. Double-fixing the windward edge is cheap insurance against storm damage.

Choosing the Right Shading Rate

Shade net is sold by shading percentage, from 30% up to 95%. For most greenhouse vegetables, 40–60% is the sweet spot — enough to cut heat stress without starving the plants of light. Leafy greens and seedlings want more shade (70–90%), while fruiting crops that need strong light do better at 30–50%. Match the shading rate to your crop and climate before you order.

Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid

• Fixing the net flat against the crop with no air gap — it rubs and holds heat
• Using non-UV ties that turn brittle and snap within a year
• Overtightening, which turns the net into a sail that pulls out fixings
• Skipping edge reinforcement on the prevailing-wind side

Shade Net Installation: FAQ

Can I lay shade net directly on my crops?

You can, but a floating cover traps heat and moisture against the plants. A supported net with a small air gap stays cooler and lasts longer.

How do I stop the net from flapping in the wind?

Fix it at closer intervals on the windward side and keep moderate tension. A net that is too loose flaps and abrades; one that is too tight tears at the clips.

What GSM should I use for a greenhouse?

For a supported greenhouse shade net, 50–80 gsm balances durability and handleability. Confirm the net is UV-stabilized if it stays up year-round.