Pigeons on ledges, roofs and balconies are a different problem from birds in a vineyard — they need a heavier mesh and a clean, tensioned fit that keeps them out without trapping them. Here is how to spec building netting that works for years.
Pigeon netting is bird net's urban cousin. Where an orchard net keeps starlings off grapes, a building net stops pigeons from roosting on ledges, gutters, balconies and roof plant — and the difference matters: pigeons are big, persistent birds that lean against the mesh, so the net has to be heavier, fitted tighter and made from UV-stable resin that survives years on a façade.
Pick the mesh to the bird. Pigeons are large, so a 19–25 mm (3/4 in–1 in) mesh is enough to keep them out — and crucially, it does so without entangling them. A mesh that's too fine (under 10 mm) is for sparrows and starlings and will actually snag a pigeon's feet. For a building that needs to stop both pigeons and small birds, a 12–15 mm mesh covers both, but for pure pigeon exclusion the larger mesh is cleaner and cheaper. See our bird netting mesh size guide for the full range.
Unlike a crop net that's draped and removed, building netting stays up permanently and is pulled tight against the structure. That calls for a heavier knit — we recommend 20–30 gsm or a multi-strand knitted HDPE so the mesh holds its shape under tension and resists the sun, rain and wind of a full outdoor year. A flimsy 15 gsm net will sag, gape and let pigeons back through the gaps within a season.
Façade netting sits in direct sun with no shade relief, so resin quality decides how long it lasts. UV-stabilised HDPE building net is quoted at a 5–8 year life on a building, versus a couple of seasons for cheap polypropylene. On a listed or high façade where re-access is expensive, the UV-stabilised net is the only sensible choice — the labour to re-fit it later costs more than the net itself.
Fit matters more than the net. For a clean result, fix the net to a tensioned perimeter wire or cable run along the ledge, fascia or balcony edge, then secure the mesh to it at close intervals with UV cable ties or hog rings. A net that's left loose lets pigeons get between it and the wall; a net pulled too tight can tear at the fixing points. The aim is a flat, drum-tight panel that a pigeon can't get behind.
Netting wins where you need physical exclusion of a whole area — balconies, roof plant, loading bays, courtyard openings — rather than a deterrent on a single ledge. Spikes stop perching but not access; netting closes the space entirely and is the only option that's both humane and close to maintenance-free. The trade is that netting needs fitting by someone who can tension it properly.
| Target | Mesh size | Weight | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pigeons only | 19–25 mm | 20–30 gsm | Ledges, balconies, roof plant |
| Pigeons + small birds | 12–15 mm | 20–30 gsm | Openings where sparrows get in too |
| Heavy-use / high wind | 19–25 mm | 30 gsm + | Exposed façades, loading bays |
19–25 mm (3/4 in–1 in) stops pigeons cleanly. Mesh finer than 10 mm is for small birds and can snag a pigeon's feet, so don't go too fine for pure pigeon work.
Yes — physical exclusion with correctly sized mesh keeps pigeons out of an area without trapping or harming them, which is why it's the preferred option over spikes for whole openings.
UV-stabilised HDPE netting is quoted at a 5–8 year life on a building. Cheap polypropylene fails in a couple of seasons under full sun.
For a clean result, yes — tension a perimeter wire along the ledge or fascia and fix the net to it at close intervals. A loose net leaves gaps pigeons will find.
19–25 mm mesh, 20–30 gsm UV-stable HDPE, fixed tight to a tensioned perimeter wire. Tell us the openings you're closing off and we'll spec the right mesh and weight.
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